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Sonoff T1 EU replacing Motor Clockwise/ Anticlockwise?

In the past I bought myself a Motor Clockwise/Anticlockwise Running WiFi Wireless Switch Model: IM160601001 to control, in a case (see picture) a roller shutter. I was perfectly happy with this product and was willing to buy more for my other shutters. But then found out it was retired. Since then only 1 shutter is controlled by my smartphone.

Now I read about the Sonoff T1 EU: 2 Gang WiFi RF Smart Wall Touch Light Switch. This might be the solution to my problem. In my opinion I could use the 2-gang version to replace the Motor Clockwise/Anticlockwise. There is only 1 catch. When using gang 1 the power to gang 2 should automatically be cut off. And when using gang 2 the power to gang 1 should automatically be cut off as well of course. Would this be possible?

Thank you up front for your help.

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In the most perfect situation would it, in addition to the above, possible to cut off the power fully for both 1 and 2 simultaneously.

You could do it over the web using scenes, but I wouldn’t trust the ewelink servers etc. I can think of two options; are you willing to write your own firmware? If you are: have a look for firmware for the device you want. It is very likely to be possible. The other & “off the shelf” option is to buy a device that does it already. Is the 4Ch pro overkill for you? That is the device that immediately comes to mind.

Thank you for your help.

Using scenes won't be an option I think. At the moment, using the Motor Clockwise/Anticlockwise Running WiFi Wireless Switch Model: IM160601001, I can close/open the shutter using the app or manually by pushing the button on the device itself. There is always on 1 of the 2 outgoing connections power. Never on both at the same time. This is very important. I don't think this will be possible for the Sonoff T1 EU: 2 Gang WiFi RF Smart Wall Touch Light Switch using scenes.

Someone with some knowlegde will be able, I think, to "tell" (write firmware|) the Sonoff T1 EU: 2 Gang WiFi RF Smart Wall Touch Light Switch to switch between the 2 outgoing connections and preferably write an option for cutting off power for both outgoing connections as well.

Certainly I am willing to write my own firmware, but I lack the expertise. I wouldn't know where to start. I have never done this before.

I have looked at the 4Ch (pro) and, as you already point out, I think it is overkill. It is too big (dimensions) and I would need one for every shutter, not using it's full potential.

To be honest, unless you wish to learn about installing new firmware and a bit of coding already, I would probably not go there. I did check there is ESPurna firmware already available for your proposed device and there is, but you would still need to adjust it. If you are happy to only adjust one blind at once you could connect two blinds to a single 4Ch Pro. The size thing is not much of a problem as I think it has RF control too and you could hide it. It is ugly anyway. You would also need to get an RF remote. These are very cheap. Would that be an easier option?


I would love to learn and know more about new firmware, but wouldn't know where to start.

Connecting 2 shutters to a single 4Ch Pro is only possible if these shutters are located next to one another.

A 4Ch Pro is approximately twice the size of a 
Motor Clockwise/Anticlockwise. It's quite big.

I don't need a RF remote. Via the app and manually would be great.

The 4Ch Pro isn't cheap. The price is USD 28.00. The price of the Motor Clockwise/Anticlockwise was USD 7.00.


I asked iTead as well. This is what they replied:

"When using gang 1 the power to gang 2 should automatically be cut off. And when using gang 2 the power to gang 1 should automatically be cut off as well of course

It is possible if you use scene function.


For cut off both 1 and 2,also can use scene function.

It need Internet when use scene function."

EB already mentioned this and this would be great of course. The problem only is, I don't understand a thing of this "scene".

I tried several times to post a reply, but it doesn't seem to work.


Have a look at the blog and see if you think it looks doable. It might be worth getting a cheap basic arduino to get used to messing around yourself with chips. They come with a USB already attached and are dead easy. You can also use the same software environment on ESP chips if you want.

 It is obvious that something went wrong when you look at all the replies above. I have been trying for 2 days and now suddenly they all appear hahaha. I will try and remove them.


Hi EB, thank you.

I don't know what "arduino" or "ESP chips" are, but will dive into this matter and try to learn all this.


@Henry Arduino is the name of a cheap simple micro controller board that is perfect for learning. It contains all the bits already and requires no soldering. ESP is just a brand of chip, bit like ‘intel’ @Miranda A scene is a simple pathway contained within the app. I would say an IFTTT, but it has nothing todo with the App of that name. It resides on the sonoff servers only. It is quite obvious once you have any devices. They do work very quickly, but do require active internet, so are much more fallible. Depends how dangerous it would be for both outputs to have active voltage.

 Thanks for the explanation. The arduino is just to play araound with a bit, is that correct?

I have been trying numerous times to place a post, but it didn't work. Finally I saw 20 I think ;-). 1 Of them showed "Miranda en Henry", I don't know how. Miranda is my wife and "en" means "and". It's dutch.

I have several other Sonoff devices and have been trying to figure out how this "scene" works. So far I wasn't very succesfull.

I understand fully what you mean. With scene you don't alter anything fysically. Via internet/scene the device knows what to do. This is a risk. In case of both outputs having active voltage, the motor of the shutter will be destroyed I think. In this situation the motor will get active voltage on "closing" and "opening" at the same time. I can imagine a motor won't be happy with that ;-)

This blog you mentioned is like chinese to me hahaha. And I don't know which Arduino to buy, I have seen hundreds of different types.


The main distinction is between ones made by the original Italian company and copies. It is ‘open hardware’ so they can be as good as the originals; just depends if you want to support the original concept. After that decision, just go for something cheap and basic. Their website is at and it includes a forum with loads of ideas. The Tonkermam blog is very much from someone who knows what they are doing. Normal people don’t need to be that good. That is why I thought an experience of the simplicity of the Arduinos makes it less daunting. You just need to have an idea. The Sonoff SC actually contains the chip from an arduino and a chip from a normal Sonoff. You might even decide to use the arduino to control your blinds and connect it to wifi with an ESP… One thing, is that for almost everything someone has already written a ‘library’ for it, so the hard work has been done and you can just add to their work. Once you have an idea, just google it. The original software was written for artists; it really couldn’t be much simpler.
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